It is stated in the "Book of Ballymote" that Aodh, son of Eochaí Tirmcharna, King of Connacht, bestowed Enaghdún on God and St. Brendan of Cluain Fearta; and it is probable that the ancient see of Cunga was transferred here early in the twelfth century.
St. Brendan, having established a nunnery, and placed his sister Briga, a canoness of the Augustinian Order, over it, died here, but was interred at Cluain Fearta, A.D. 577. Several of its bishops are mentioned in the Irish Annals; but the episcopal lords of the neighbouring diocese of St. Iarlaith, and especially Archbishop Mac Aodha, feeling perhaps some jealousy on the subject, induced Pope John XXII in 1321 to issue a bull to suppress it, and join it to that of Tuaim; and many of its revenues and valuables were transferred to the collegiate church of St. Nicholas in Galway. The mandate of the Pontiff does not, however, appear to have been implicitly obeyed either by the Irish or English; for some of its bishops are enumerated after that date; and, so late as 1484, Richard III "dispatched to Ireland Thomas Barrett, a cleric of Somerset, who had been appointed to the bishopric of Enagh-dun, in Connacht, to instruct the Deputy Kildare by all possible means to bring into the King's power the Earldom of Ulster, then almost entirely possessed by the native Irish." And in order to conciliate the Desmond of the day, the Bishop brought a royal message that he should "renounce the waringe and usage of the Irish array;" and presented him with the King's livery, consisting of a collar of gold weighing twenty ounces; and from the King's wardrobe a long gown of cloth of gold lined with satin, doublets of velvet and crimson satin; stomachers, shirts, and kerchiefs; hose of scarlet, violet and black colours; bonnets, hats, and tippets of velvet, etc. But, gorgeous and enticing as this English "array" was, it will not bear comparison with that of Cormac Mac Airt many centuries before, as related in the "Book of Ballymote;" nor of O Donnell, respecting whose costume the Lord Deputy St. Leger, when that Irish chieftain requested "Parliament robes," informed the King that--"At such time as he mette with me he was in a cote of crymoisin velvet, with eggletts of gold, xx or xxx payer. Over that a greate doble cote of right crymoisin satin, garded with black velvet; a bonnet, with a fether set full of eggletts of gold, etc."
Eventually, the bishopric of Eanach Dúin was incorporated with that of Tuaim; but it does not appear, from the histories, to have been given up without a struggle; and the adjoining castle, which is probably of De Burgo origin, was significantly placed on the south shore of the little creek between the residence of the diocesan and his cathedral: while, at the same time, it commanded an extensive view of the country of the O Flahertys towards the west. When the Monastery of Eanach Dúin was suppressed, it was granted to Richard Earl of Clanricarde.
Many years ago there was an extensive village here, nineteen of the
inhabitants of which and the adjoining townlands were drowned near
Mionloch, when sailing in a rickety old boat with their sheep to Galway
fair, which event gave rise to one of the most mournful of the Irish laments
of recent days. [Written by Anthony Raftery, it is still known
and sung as Eanach Cuan]
(see Amhráin Mhuighe Seóla, p. 98).]
Passing up the road to the east, we reach the crumbling walls, constructed chiefly of round, undressed stones, of an extensive monastic building, of which the preceding illustration is a faithful representation.
Attached to the north side of the monastery is the Abbey Church, the west gable and the north walls of which are still standing, as also a portion of the south walls at the west, where it is supported by a remarkably well-built buttress of dressed stone, evidently of much later date. The entire length of this Domhnach Mór, or large cathedral church, is 108 feet 9 inches, by 21 feet 2 inches broad in the clear, of which space the chancel occupies 17.5 feet by 14.5, having a reveal of 4 feet on each side.
The northern entrance, near the western end, which is still intact, has a deeply-moulded pointed arch; but that on the south, which was probably nearer the east, for the accommodation of the clerics, is undistinguishable. The choir arch has also been completely destroyed; but several of the stones of the clustered pillars that supported it can be seen strewn around, or forming headstones to modern graves.
Clearing away some of the rubbish that had accumulated under the site of the chancel arch, were discovered two remarkable tomb stones, both unhappily broken, and without inscriptions. They were both, probably, those of ecclesiastics, many notabilities of which class, especially of the Ó Máille and Mac Floinn families were buried here. There is one small trefoil-headed window in the north wall of the long nave, and another narrow light in the chancel of this church; but the south light in the latter part is still in partial preservation, and its lion's headed impost on the east side is uninjured. A large chasm in the wall marks the site of the east window.
Archdall, in his Monasticon Hibernicum, published in 1786, mentions the nunnery at Annaghdown, which together with the town of Kelgel, was, by a bull of Pope Celestine III, granted, in 1195, to the nuns of the Order of Aroacea; likewise the Abbey of St. Mary de portu Patrum, for white nuns of the Premonstre Order (probably the present ruin), a Franciscan friary, and the college of St. Brendan.
To the north-east of the abbey is the nunnery church, undoubtedly the oldest structure now remaining at Eanach Dúin, and the west gable of which, with its small bell-tower, is shown in the general view of the ruins. It possesses no architectural attraction, nor any means of judging of its precise date, except a Gothic pointed doorway in the north wall, which portion is still standing, and measures 90.5 feet on the outside.
It is stated in the records that the church of Eanach Dúin was built by Aodh Mór O Flaherty in 1400, and that it was burned eleven years afterwards; but, possibly, the former entry may refer to its re-edification.
The east window of this cathedral church has been long since removed,
and nothing now remains there but irregular gap in the wall; there
can, however, be little doubt that every stone of that beauteous specimen of
medieval Irish work is still in existence; and thanks to the taste, if
not the honesty, of the architect of the adjacent Protestant church, it
will there be found, presenting interiorly, as perfect a condition as
when the adjoining church was unroofed.This window consists of a deeply-
splayed circular-headed light, 6 feet 8 inches high and 2 feet 10 inches
wide in the clear of the opening.The illustration expresses better than
words the skill of the artist who designed the abbey.On each side of the
half round moulding, where the deep splay of the window joins the church
wall, there is a line of decorated chevrons, in the angles formed by which
on both sides, are sixty-six floral ornaments, still quite sharp, and each
different from the rest, and showing the marvellous fertility in conception
and design of our Irish artists, which are so well seen in metal-work
and enamel on several of our most ancient shrines and croziers, and in
the tracings on manuscripts, as well as in the limestone decoration of
many of our
churches and castles. Of the latter we have a notable example in the banqueting hall at Achadh na nIubhar, on the opposite shore of the lake, to be described further on. The annexed cut shows the base of one of the angles in this window. The church itself, which cannot be two hundred years old, is, with the exception of its northern doorway, otherwise wholly undecorated. Architects acquainted with early church architecture cannot but regard this window as one of the most perfect and beautiful specimens of decorated stone work now existing in the island.
In the "Annals of the Four Masters" we find the following entry: "A.D. 1238, the Cloictheach of Annadown was erected." This is the latest notice of a Cloic Theach, "bell house" or round tower, erected in Ireland,
and antiquarians have anxiously sought for it; but after a rigorous scrutiny on several occasions, we have not been able to discover the slightest vestige of any such structure in or about the ruins of Eanach Dúin; and the hypothesis that the foregoing notice might refer to a square belfry like that at Baile Chláir na Gaillimhe Friary, is quite untenable.
Passing round the little creek to the south of the ecclesiastical ruins, we reach the walled-in bounteous well of St. Brendan, and gain access to the tall, square tower-castle (headpiece p. 22.) that forms so conspicuous and attractive an object both from the lake and land sides all round.It is exceedingly well built, and, like all the castellated remains in this district, batters gradually at the base. The entrance, on the south face, is by a pointed-arch doorway, strongly fortified by all the defensive contrivances of the period, and the character of the warfare of the time. To the left of the porch is a long flag-roofed guard-room and square door. Two other doorways with angle-arched heads open, one into a small chamber, and the other into the winding stone stairs that gave access to the upper portion of the building.In the roof of the porch is the usual poll-na-morrough, through which missiles might be poured on those who had so far gained access to the inside.
In the thickness of the wall is a square tube leading from the outer door-jamb, and which was probably used for communicating with those beyond, like a modern acoustic apparatus.Other flues of a like nature, but larger, exist in different parts of the building, and also passages formed in the thickness of the walls. The corbels that supported the floors and the chimney breasts are still in situ, and the garde robe is on the north face.In 1586 "Nicholas Lynch [held] Annaghcoyne."
To the south of the castle are the remains of an old house, said to have been that of the diocesan; and on the shore, to the south-west, is St. Cormac's Well, where "stations" are still occasionally performed on Sundays and Fridays. From a point between these two last mentioned places, the best view of the Annaghdown group of ruins may be obtained.
Besides those just described, this extensive parish contains several other objects of antiquarian and historic interest; in fact--to use the parlance employed in other writings--"too numerous to mention," unless in a minute parochial survey. It abounds in raths; and among its ruins may be mentioned--besides Druim grifín, referred to already--the tall, well-built Castle of Druim Buadh, with its adjoining Well of St. Cyprian, Mace Castle, the old church of Cillín, and the circular-towered Caisleán Craoibhe; but, except the latter, they are either too far distant from the lake to be accessible, or not of sufficient interest to be dwelt upon.
To the north-west of the village of Corr an Dola in this parish, upon a scarped bare rock, surrounded by a village, stand the ruins of Craobh Castle, originally square, with massive circular towers at the corners, some what like that of Dunmo, upon the left bank of the Boyne; portions of two of these towers still remain, and are well worthy of examination.Many legends attach to this old castle, and many romantic tales of Craoibh Ni Búrca and her husband, George Barry, are still related by the neighbouring peasantry to somewhat the following effect: This chieftainess and her husband not agreeing, she sent him down to his fortress near Castlebar.Now, in the neighbourhood of the castle, in the low, boggy district between it and Eanach Dúin, still exists the enchanted lake, called Loch-a-Fuar, where lamentations are heard in the summer twilight, every seventh year.Out of this lake, one summer's day, a young water-horse-- the Each or Capall-uisge of Irish fairy tales--coming out to disport itself, was captured by the lady's retainers, who carried him off to the castle, where he was shut up in the stable for some time; but no one could be fouund to ride him. So the lady had to send for her discarded spouse, who was a celebrated equestrian.He came; and some green moss was tied on the eyes of the water-horse, so that he might not see where he was going. Off rode the horseman; and, finding the beast willing and fleet, was unwise enough to take the covering from off its eyes, upon which it dashed forward, and slew the rider, leaving
portions of him at different places, and the remainder at Leacht George, referred to at page 20, where his leacht or stone monument was erected that has given name to the locality. It then dashed back to Loch-a-Fuar, and, having plunged into the waves of its native element, has not been seen or heard of since.
A deep bay borders the north-west margin of Annaghdown parish, as far as the mills of Coill Rua, where the parish of Cill Chuana abuts upon Loch Coirib. Passing eastward and crossing the main road from Galway to Headford, by Ballinduff, and near Cathair Mor, through a country studded with raths and cahers, we reach the little church and burial ground of St. Cuana, nearly in the centre of the enclosure of which stands the butt of the Round Tower, which I am inclined to believe is that referred to by the annalists as having been erected in 1238, (see illustration on previous page). It stands upon a double plinth, and is now eight feet high and fifty-two feet nine inches in girth. The stones, some of which upon the lower course are five feet two inches long, of a yellowish white limestone, are dressed, cambered on the outside, and laid in regular courses; and in some instances, as may be seen in the engraving, cut into each other, after the manner of the ancient Cyclopean masonry. No vestige of the doorway remains, as the present top is below the level of the usual site of that portion of a Cloictheach or Irish round tower, but it was probably on the east face. The interior of the tower is at present a solid mass of clay and stones, from which some luxuriant ivy has thrown its projecting arms around the ruin, and at the same time added to its picturesque effect.
The long, narrow parish of Cill Chuana, running nearly north and south between those of Eanach Dúin and Cill Éanna, occupies about two miles of lake shore, and is crossed by the high road between Gaillimh and Ath Chinn.
A few paces to the northeast are the ruined walls of a church, sixty-six feet five inches long, and twenty-four feet wide outside, with the gables still standing; but there are no carved stones throughout the building that afford us any means of conjecturing its date. Archdall says: "Tipraid, Prince of Hyfiachra, granted the abbey of Killchunna to St. Columb, who placed St. Cuanna over it; he was maternal brother to St. Carthag, and was afterwards removed to the abbey of Lismore. This is now [1786] a parish church."
St. Cuana, or Coona, who was born towards the close of the sixth century, as a son of Miodhorn, son of Dubhratha, son of Éanna, son of Niall of the Nine Hostages, the great King of Ireland.His mother was Meda, or Finneda, daughter of Fingen, a nobleman in the western district of Munster, and whose origin was derived from the tribe and territory of Corca Dhuibhne.She is said to have been the mother of four distinguished men, the first of whom, Carthach, son of Findall, was Abbot of Rathan, in Meath, and afterwards Bishop of Lios Mór, in Munster. The second, St. Cuana, whose festival and natal day is the 4th of February, from being a monk of Lios Mór, became "Abbot of the Monastery of Cill Chuana, in the western district of Connacht." He is said to have died about the year 650, and is reputed to have written a chronicle of his own time, or Annals of Ireland, up to A.D. 628; for Sir James Ware, in his "Writers of Ireland," thus refers to him: "Cuan or Cuanach, is an author often quoted in the Annals of Ulster as low down as the year 628, but not afterwards, by the name of the Book of Cuan, or Cuanach, from whence I conjecture that he was the author of a chronicle, and flourished about this time."There were, however, other Cuanas of a later date. In the fragments of his history collected in the Acta Sanctorum many prodigies are recorded, especially as to his manner of crossing the lake upon a flat stone with his followers from Gnó Mór; but it is also stated that he collected around him, at his church and monastery of Cill Chuana, a great number of learned Christian men, when the whole of this region, from Baile Chlair na Gaillimhe to Cong, was fertile with piety, learning and art.
The local tradition is to the effect, that Saints Éanna and Fursa, who gave names to the adjoining parishes, were sons of Meda, and brothers of Cuana, but the hagiology is not clear upon the subject. The saint's well, the Dabhach Chuana, formerly frequented by pilgrims, lies in the adjacent townland of Cnoc Réin.
Within the demesne of Ballinduff stands an old castle of the Skerritts, where a fierce contest took place in 1469 between Clanricarde and O'Donnell; and in 1586 it was held by "Mac Walter, called Thomas M'Henry."
To the north of Eanach Dúin, and the west of Kilcoona, is the parish of Cill Éanna, which, although not large occupies a considerable extent of the lake's margin.It derives its name from Enda, or Éanna (a very common name formerly in the West), who, as already stated, is said to have been the brother of Cuana and Fursa; but, after investigating the subject, O Donovan has left the following record: "This St. Einne is the famous Endeus of Aranmore." The parish is sometimes called Cloch an Uabhair (pronounced Clough-anoor) "The Stone of Pride," which, with the adjoining castle of the same name, can be seen on the roadside, between Baile Chláir na Gaillimhe and Áth Chinn; and there is a tradition of a celebrated witch, called Cailleach an Uabhair, "The Hag of Pride," who cast this stone hither from a distant hill, and left the marks of her thumb and three fingers upon it. It lies a few paces to the south of the castle. The old church and saint's well are to the south-east of the castle, but present no features of interest.Near this castle passes a very tempting stream for the angler, which carries off the water from Dubhloch, and some of the eastern turlochs, and delivers itself into a deep adjoining bay of Loch Coirib.
At the northem extremity of this parish, and on the high road from Gaillimh to Cong, although not within the parochial boundary, stands the little town of Headford, still called in Irish Áth Chinn, "The Ford of the Head."
Near the shore, opposite Lee's Island there is an ancient stone fort called Cathair Aidhne and, like all the other parishes along the lake, numerous caves, lisíns, raths, and cairns can be seen therein.The island contains forty-seven and a half acres, and was in former days a scene, as well as the cause, of a memorable dispute between the O Flahertys and the O Lees.
We now pass between the parishes of Cairrgín and Cill Aithnín and approach the Ferry of Cnoc, where the lake narrows to about a quarter of a mile in width. This was formerly the chiefpassage between Iar-Chonnacht and Conamara on the south-west; and the barony of Clare, in Galway, and the Mayo side of the lake, on the north-east.Upon the northem side there is a low shrubbery growth of hazel, giving it the name of Coill Beag, or "the little wood"; and at the pier here the steamer stops for a short time. It is in the parish of Cairrgín, which will occupy our attention in the next chapter. The transit here was formerly effected by a large flat-bottomed boat or float, capable of holding carriages and cattle; but foot passengers were taken across in small boats.