The Changing Face of Galway

By Eimear Laffan , 28 July 2002

Ever catch a glimpse of someone out of the corner of your eye and wonder from where do you know that face? May be they just look familiar and you don’t really know them; may be the person in question has lost or gained some weight; may be they have begun wearing glasses or have invested in contacts lenses. That moment of familiarity could be attributable to any number of reasons. But quite likely the person behind that face has just gotten that little bit older. Whichever, do you always consider the change to be for the best?

Having just relocated in Galway after a three-year absence, I can’t help but notice the metamorphosis that has occurred in a very short period of time. This is no simple makeover with a splash of paint here and there intended to liven things up. There has been an extensive overhaul that has altered the outward appearance and the character of the city.

Saturday Market, 20 July 2002.

The adoption of the one way road system in Galway city has had a major impact. Automated transport in the city centre has decreased significantly and several of the most central streets have been paved. This has definitely created a certain ambience with streets more resembling fairways. It is consequently proving to be an attraction with hoards of people roaming the streets both day and night. Walking down one of said streets today, I happened to overhear two women. ‘It has a very continental feel to it, doesn’t it?’ the American lady remarked to her Irish companion. I laughed instinctively but the thought subsequently bothered me. While never comparable to the other major cities in Ireland such as Dublin or Cork, the Galway that I knew, and indeed loved, could hardly be described as continental either. And there in lied both its charm and its uniqueness.

While it is hardly of any surprise that the number of businesses in and around Galway city has grown, with it has come a new efficiency and an unnecessary sense of urgency. There clearly isn’t enough time in the working day leading to the phenomenon that is ‘the business lunch’. To cater for this demand, there is a new breed of upmarket restaurants. The cities restaurants not only tout the cuisine of the continent, but that of Asia and beyond as well. Even the Saturday market with its traditional range of fresh and organic produce has gone upscale offering hot food from both China and Japan.

Quays pub in Quay Street

Nowhere is the change more noticeable than the ‘ever-charming’ Quay Street. This beautifully paved walkway has always been a magnet for tourists and locals alike. Hosting an abundance of cafes, restaurants and pubs that vie for custom, these businesses have now expanded to the great outdoors. Customers can now sit and eat or drink and watch the world go by. Even the more established eateries such as the infamous McDonagh’s fish and chip shop have adopted this marketing technique. In attempting to ignore the hotdog stands last weekend I found myself instead questioning the ‘ever-charming’ aspect of the street. As with cosmetic surgery it may be possible to change the fine points again at a later time but there is no reverting back to the primary state.

Some things remain the same. Buskers continue to adorn the streets while the more conventional arts scene continues to thrive and diversify as witnessed throughout the Arts Festival. The population continues to grow and the large student presence plays a part in ensuring that the city stays young at heart. Irrespective of the growth in population the city has successfully avoided sprawl and still occupies a relatively small area making it easy to navigate.

All of the changes that could easily go unnoticed on a daily basis might seem relatively unimportant. They are significant, however, in tracing the changing nature of a small city that is striving to find a new way of coping within a changing economic and social climate. ‘Most of the change we think we see in life is due to truths being in and out of favour’ according to Robert Frost. Be that as it may, it doesn’t mean that we have to like it.

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